Jocotepec

15 km (10 mi) west of Ajijic. At the western end of Lago de Chapala, small Jocotepec is a world away from its tourist-impacted neighbors, Ajijic and Chapala. The town has long been famous for its white scrapes, but the delicate shawls are increasingly rare. It remains a refreshingly traditional Mexican town, though. An example of this is the Sunday paseo, where adolescents circle the main plaza in opposite directions, flirting under the supervision of older relatives sitting in the middle or along the edges.

Where To Stay

Los Dos Bed & Breakfast. On a hillside overlooking Jocotepec and the lake, los Dos has a well-kept garden and a pleasant terrace where breakfast is served. The suites - one is a tri-level cottage - are spacious and filled with artwork by the owner-operators, Phyllis Rauch and her husband, Austrian painter Georg Rauch. Georg's studio is on-site; be sure to ask for a tour.

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